It’s been 8 years since I traveled and surfed mainland Mexico. Back then, I took so many photos and concentrated on getting those pics to the surfers, as well as Surfermag.com, that I wound up with a ton of outtakes. I always pushed forward and just stashed them all on back up discs. Now, after all those years, I’ve decided to spend some time weaving those old pics onto this site. Continue reading Breaking Open The Shoe Box Photos
How’s it go? Silver lining to every dark cloud? What about dark clouds for five or six days? And rain dumping for 18 out of every 24 hours? And flash floods at least once a day, because the ground is already soaked from a tropical storm last week. Is there a silver lining, if you can’t see the sun for a week?
Well, most people would have been satisfied to just be able to walk outside without a storm and needing an umbrella. Everyone enjoyed the lower temperatures, since the sun had a break from cooking dirt for a few days. But a small group at the coast was seeing the brightest part of the silver lining. The surfers were stoked! Continue reading Surfing: Is The Glass Half Empty Or All Day?
We are nearing the end of the season for tropical storms, and after watching the East Coast score back to back swell, I started to think of the gulf as a barren womb. All of us were denied at the beginning of the season, but the Atlantic seems to have turned into a whore that births hurricanes twice a week. All of them hooking a right turn and staying offshore and not making landfall. The perfect storm for surfers..no one gets hurt and everyone scores swell.
But the tropics have been sleepy for the small sandspit in south Texas. Well, until last week that is… Continue reading Surf Session: South Padre, Sept. 17-18th, 2010
After an eight-day week of SE swell, the winds finally turned to clean up the mess on Sunday morning. A cool front worked it’s way down to the South Padre area in the morning and early risers scored the best conditions under a light NW breeze. The size was on it’s way down fast, but those last two hours of glassy conditions are pretty much what many surfers around here wait for.
The outside sand bar was still working in the morning, where all the action had been in the previous days, but as the size went down on Sunday it became less consistent and headed for a shutdown. There was a handful of surfers out there, but most of the line up was nabbing waist-chest high thumpers on the inside. Jalufka scored a killer little barrel around mid-morning. Check out the entire sequence of Justin’s cover up as an animated .gif file. Click Here.
Words and Photos by Chuck Turkington
Well, it’s been awhile since I surfed, so that’s pretty much what I did, instead of taking photos. I took Brent’s advice and paddled out along the rocks, and rode the rip current to the outside. Without a board, that fast track out to sea would be deadly. But for a 5-7 foot swell breaking on the outside, the rip at the jetties is the quickest way to the line up.
I don’t think I caught the swell at it’s peak, and it was dropping fast, but I saw some fun waves and managed to grab a couple.I did manage to take a few photos in the early evening. Not many people were still surfing, but I saw Carlos and Tim catch a couple. They’ve got good style, so I was stoked to see them through the lens.
Photos by Chuck Turkington
Woke up and found the morning lineup had some fresh people out. You never know who filters in during the night. Well, you used to back when it was a small, concentrated camp area. But also back in the day no one took the mountain road at night, but I digress. I see someone new out there laying hard tail turns and surfing hard on the back foot. Powerful and buckets on head high waves. Continue reading Random Encounters in Mexico: Sepp Bruhwiler and Shannon Brown.
Words and Photos by Chuck Turkington
You should have been here tomorrow. That’s all I can say to all my Texas buddies that split after new year’s. Yeah, I know…not all of us are able to take vacations based on swell maps but what a difference a little west makes in a north swell. At least it wasn’t flat during anyone’s visit.
After surfing head high and under for almost a month, some size finally found it’s way down here. Nothing crazy, but it did take away 30 feet of beach right in front of my camp. Should be exciting for me if another sizeable swell hits. I may have to move…
It was, i think, about the third day after a new swell…maybe second…i dunno… anyway, it was the on the downgrade but still HH. Small enough though that some of the people that stayed out of the water the day before because of “bad tamales”, suddenly felt fine and were chargin morning high tide.
As the day went on, the tide went out but size was about the same. Plenty more people scratch for the line up. Basically by lunch time, if the winds are good and it’s the trailing edge of a swell anyone that got shitfaced drunk because it was too big or mysteriously “sick” or even just flat out said, “no way mang!” They all felt confident enough to head out today.
I was kicked back in the shade on the beach and I snapped a quick shot or two of the mid-morning session and kept the camera nearby. At around 2 or three (the hottest time of day and there’s still people out!) I see a friggin’ MACKING set explode way outside of the line-up. I grabbed for my camera and snapped a couple rush shots as the set just unloaded, out of nowhere, onto the full range of funboarders, blue-crushers, and a couple toasted and surfed out tweakers. it cleaned ’em all up. Sent them all to the beach!
What would you do with an old thruster that has tail cancer? I’m not sure about you, but Paolo Schulte bought one for 100 pesos, scooped out the damaged tail and center skeg, sealed it and surfed it!
I first met Schulte sometime in December, somewhere in Mexico. He basically ripped and knew the spot very well. Anytime the point got too crowded or fat with tide movement, I often found him gambling with barrels on the beach break. We were both at the same spot for quite awhile and eventually became friends. I watched him surf a few different boards and he ripped on all of them. He’s on those boards in a few other photo galleries in this site, but this story is all about his open-minded approach to staying in the curl…even if it’s odd looking. And also, the guy has a hell of a sense of humor. I could never tell if he was going to bust an air with intense focus or just try to make me laugh while screaming out of a tube ride.
When you’re a long-timer, and surfing nearly daily sessions, a small quiver really starts to get beat to shit. So in order to save the good boards for the good swells, but to keep up the water time, some people start surfing on older, uglier, and stranger boards than normal. Especially those that aren’t rich or have ten perfect boards that look like they’ve never been used. The unsponsored, but core guys, will surf anthing that floats.
I first noticed Schulte was surfing a different board when I saw it flipping over and getting tossed in front of the foam as he was swimming in after it. Someone grabbed it for him before it hit the rocks and he paddled back out. A few days later, it happened to be me that grabbed it for him. It was then that I noticed why he wasn’t using a leash. There was no place for one! I was looking at a strange twin fin with a C-shaped tail. It was yellowed with age and taking on water from recent times when no one was there to keep it from hitting the rocks. I put it on the sand and continued to head out. We waved at each other and I made a mental note to ask him about the board later on.
When I got the scoop about the amputed fin and gutted tail cancer, I was still left a little confused. But when he told me how much he paid for it, I understood. The question wasn’t, why? It was more like, why not? It floats and it turns…what more do you need? For the price of two meals, anyone can score a board. Whether it’s rideable or not is totally up to you.
Words and Photos by Chuck Turkington
Early in January, I ran into Frank Floyd and his crew of Texas rippers. Joining Nathan, Micah and J.R. was Jaime, formely of Sayulita but currently living on Kauai. This group of B.H.P. rippers are still borderline drinking age, but yet the beaches in Central Mexico are old stomping grounds for them. The surf was small when they hit up this spot, but they got plenty of shack time at a different beach for most of their trip. Having seen them surf overhead before, I only could only wish that there would have been some size in the water while they were here. Oh well…they rip the small kine too!