Words and Photos by Chuck Turkington
Well, it’s been awhile since I surfed, so that’s pretty much what I did, instead of taking photos. I took Brent’s advice and paddled out along the rocks, and rode the rip current to the outside. Without a board, that fast track out to sea would be deadly. But for a 5-7 foot swell breaking on the outside, the rip at the jetties is the quickest way to the line up.
I don’t think I caught the swell at it’s peak, and it was dropping fast, but I saw some fun waves and managed to grab a couple.I did manage to take a few photos in the early evening. Not many people were still surfing, but I saw Carlos and Tim catch a couple. They’ve got good style, so I was stoked to see them through the lens.