It was, i think, about the third day after a new swell…maybe second…i dunno… anyway, it was the on the downgrade but still HH. Small enough though that some of the people that stayed out of the water the day before because of “bad tamales”, suddenly felt fine and were chargin morning high tide.
As the day went on, the tide went out but size was about the same. Plenty more people scratch for the line up. Basically by lunch time, if the winds are good and it’s the trailing edge of a swell anyone that got shitfaced drunk because it was too big or mysteriously “sick” or even just flat out said, “no way mang!” They all felt confident enough to head out today.
I was kicked back in the shade on the beach and I snapped a quick shot or two of the mid-morning session and kept the camera nearby. At around 2 or three (the hottest time of day and there’s still people out!) I see a friggin’ MACKING set explode way outside of the line-up. I grabbed for my camera and snapped a couple rush shots as the set just unloaded, out of nowhere, onto the full range of funboarders, blue-crushers, and a couple toasted and surfed out tweakers. it cleaned ’em all up. Sent them all to the beach!